Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
